The Valley's seafood fans have a new fishing hole where they can drop their lines. It's Bluewater Grill, the fourth branch of a small southern California outfit which opens today (Oct. 9) on Camelback Road. It takes over the spot that used to house the Fish Market, which was sold last month after a 23-year run.

The ownership change isn't all that drastic: Bluewater Grill co-founder Richard Staunton is the son-in-law of Fish Market co-founder A. C. Duckett, Jr.

General Manager Larry Macias calls the Bluewater Grill the Fish Market's "cooler cousin." Gone is the Fish Market's casual downstairs/white-tablecloth upstairs dichotomy. The downstairs area remains casual, and it includes both a sushi bar and seafood bar. Upstairs is reserved for private parties and banquets.

The daily-changing menu features whatever is fresh, and the company says that over the course of a year it carries some 40 different species.

Look for starters like clam chowder ($5.95, bowl), jumbo prawn cocktail ($11.50), crab cakes ($12.95) and a duo of smoked salmon and albacore ($9.50).

Purists can get their fish simply grilled. The catch often includes sand dabs ($16.25), halibut ($22.55), swordfish ($22.95), ahi ($23) and rainbow trout ($16.95). These plates come with two sides.

You can also get seafood dishes like cioppino ($19.95), lobster and shrimp ravioli ($20.95), tempura yam-crusted halibut ($24.95) and cedar plank salmon in a sake and soy marinade ($20.95).

And if you're into deep-fat frying, you can crunch into beer-battered fish and chips ($15.25), panko fried shrimp ($17.75) and Ipswich fried clams ($22.50).

Details: Bluewater Grill, 1720 E. Camelback Road, Phoenix, (602) 277-3474. Hours: Lunch and dinner, 11:30 a.m. to 11p.m., Monday through Saturday; 10 a.m. to 10 p.m., Sunday. bluewatergrill.com